Auf Deutch, bitte!

For the past two days, I have been having SO much fun. We started German classes on Monday (my first ever), so I've had three German classes in my life (an hour and a half each). And now I've been in Germany for three full days (if you count today, which is nearly over). And already I'm starting to be able to communicate well enough to engage my most important superpower of networking.

Last night, Melissa and I went to dinner at the Italian restaurant that is downstairs from our hotel in the same building. Our waiter, Zati (not sure about the spelling), was an Albanian who speaks German, Albanian, and some Serbian--but no English at all. Another waiter helped him communicate with us, but mostly we spoke the universal languages of sign language and telepathy. Fortunately, I'm fluent in both of those, and I'm learning how to say a few things in German as well! We ordered some really delicious food. (I ordered a small veggie pizza and intended to eat part of it and take some home for later. I ate the entire thing--after covering it in the olive oil that was on the table.) We also had a great time trying to talk to him. I asked him how to thank him in Serbian, and he had to ask his father, who was sitting at the next table and looked like he could possibly be part of the Serbian mafia--and who stared at us after I thanked Zati in Serbian. (It's falla, if you're wondering!)

This morning I bravely ventured downtown all alone (alleine)! If you know me at all, you know that I am terrible with directions. I can get lost anywhere, even places I've been many times before. I get lost in people's homes on my way back from the bathroom, and I got lost once backstage at an audition (and that's a story for another blog post, maybe!). So trying to find my way around a strange town in a foreign language which I really don't speak or understand at all is daunting, to say the least. But I am a bold and fearless explorer! So, since I've been following my colleagues around for the past few days, I decided to try exploring on my own a little today. I knew I would probably get lost, but I also knew it was the only way I would ever learn my way around at all. I left the hotel and was relieved to see Zati standing outside the Amici Restaurant with a friend, smoking (everyone seems to smoke here! or at least all the men). So I asked, "Wo ists...downtown? With the cobblestone streets?" (gesturing to the street). Zati looked confused, but his friend seemed to understand. He explained to me slowly, in German: "Gehen (counting on his fingers) einz, zwei, drei Gasse (street)...[some words I didn't understand]...und links (gesturing to the left, a word I already knew)...und...(more incomprehensible words and an arm gesture which clearly meant "continue to the end".

Clear as mud.

So I walked to the third cross street, turned left, kept going straight for a few blocks, and lo and behold! Downtown! Cobblestone streets and all the shops! However, next I had to find my way to the theater for a meeting. But Theater is the same in German, and I was hopeful that I might run into another American from our group, less directionally challenged than myself (as is pretty much everyone in the world), who could lead me to the theater. Sure enough, I saw one buying some bread (Brot) in a little shop almost as soon as I found the downtown. "Brian!" I cried, "I'm glad to see you! Do you know how to get to the theater?" He looked at me oddly. (I think it was right around the corner from where we were.) "Yes." "Whew," said I, "I'm hopeless with directions, you know." We had a little time, so we wandered around a little and I helped him buy a bottle of water (Wasser?, along with a gesture outlining a bottle, and "to go" [spoken in English], with a gesture out the door).

After our meeting, the entire group went together to German class. And after THAT, I had coffee with another member of the group (Ian) at a cafe that was one of the few businesses that survived under Communism. Kinda cool, and the coffee here is just wonderful and cheap. No drip coffee, but French press everywhere for 1 or 2 Euros or even less. And espresso drinks are cheap too. I guess if you like weak coffee it would be awful, but I like it strong and chewy, and I think it's fabulous. I also prefer my water with bubbles, and that's the default here, although they do charge you for the water.

Anyway, after our coffee, Ian had to go back to the theater for rehearsal, and I was headed back to the hotel. I bravely set off on my own without even asking him to explain to me how to get back. I thought I knew--I did so well this morning! But I missed a turn and found myself in completely unfamiliar surroundings.

Well, I knew that was coming. It's the only way I can ever learn my way around a new place: by getting lost a lot. Fortunately I had nowhere to be and nothing particular to do, so for a while I just kept walking. I saw some signs that said "Hotel Kronzprintz" (where we are staying) with an arrow, but eventually I realized I must have missed the turn for the Kronzprintz and had clearly gone too far. So I plucked up my courage and approached a stranger.

"Bitte, wo ists der Bahnhofstrasse?" (The Bahnhofstrasse is the street I'm staying on.) Well, he started speaking German--quite quickly--and I didn't understand. But he gestured down one street and indicated some turns, and I understood--go down that street, then left.

But left where?

Well, nothing for it but to try! So I started down that street hoping I might recognize the turn (yeah, right!), but knowing I could always ask for directions again. Soon enough I decided I was pretty lost again. So again I approached a stranger: "Bitte, wo ists der Bahnhofstrasse? Hotel Kronzprintz?" Again the flood of German. Is my accent good enough that they think I'll understand? Or are they actually speaking slowly and carefully and I just can't understand anyway? Again I followed the gestures, but again, after a few blocks, I decided I needed directions again.

Well, you know the drill. This man was actually more helpful--the other two were helpful but didn't seem to know any English, so they couldn't even give me a few words--and took some time and even walked a few steps with me to point me in the right direction. He explained several times, in English and German, until I actually understood what to do. Also the directions were shorter this time, since each round of getting lost had actually gotten me a little closer to my destination. So I walked down the street, turned left, and--voila! I was on the Bahnhofstrasse. A few blocks down I saw the Amici restaurant, which meant I was home. What a relief!

Of course I was wearing my sandals, which gave me some blisters. But it was totally worth it. I was actually very excited that I was able to communicate well enough to get home, even though I did have to ask multiple people. The truth is, I probably would have had to do the same thing in a city where everyone spoke English. It hardly has to do with the language barrier, just my problems with direction!!

Tonight Melissa and I went out to dinner again--this time to a Czech restaurant. Yes, you read that right. I know I should be eating more German food--and I am--and I will--but seriously?? Italian is one thing, since we have it in the States, but how many chances will I have to eat Czech food? We ordered an appetizer, a salad, and an entree and just shared everything.

Fortunately the waiter spoke German and some English. Not Czech, although I did ask him to read for me the Czech names of the dishes we ordered. And the menu was in all three of those languages. Our salad had this description in English: This everyone in Czech Republic loves. Good enough for me! It was fabulous--a thick chunk of Camembert cheese on toast with salad, which I'm pretty sure was made from local greens, because they were really fresh and delicious. It was also more expensive than most restaurants here--about the same as a nice sit-down place in Virginia--say Clementine's in Harrisonburg or maybe the Mockingbird in Staunton. I should stop eating out so much, although mostly it's very cheap, but it's such a great way to practice German!